Orkney and Shetland Islands, Ferries and Ferry Crossings

Welcome to the Scottish Islands - Orkneys and Shetlands - (UK) section of FerryCrossings.org, the site for information about major UK and continental ports and the ferries between them. Our site includes an introduction to a number of ports and feature pages about the various crossing ways, lanes and routes and companies operating between them to help you plan your journey and discover interesting travel destinations along the way.

Frequently referred to collectively as 'The Northern Isles' the islands fall into two distinct groups, those closest to the Scottish mainland, the Orkney Isles and those further away, towards Norway, called the Shetland Isles. Between them lies Fair Isle (a name associated with the beautiful woollen knitted patterns created there). Fair Isle itself is accessible by both air and sea from Lerwick and Sumburgh in the Shetland Isles.

Orkney Islands

The Orkney Islands are now part of the UK but, historically speaking, there has always been a close relationship with Norway. The group of islands lies 10 miles north of the northern tip of Scotland. It comprsies around 70 islands of varying sizes of which around 20 are inhabited. The largest island is the 'Mainland' and is one of the larger ones around the Scottish coast. The rest of the islands fall into 2 further groups known as the 'North Isles' and the 'South Isles'. Mainland is home to about 75% of the population of the islands which is around 21,000. Both Stromness and Kirkwall are found on Mainland from which the other islands can be accessed by ferry and sometimes air. Numerous Neolithic, Pictish and Viking sites are to be found on Mainland. Four of the main Neolithic sites are included in the UNESCO designated 'Heart of Neolithic Orkney' World Heritage Site.

Included in the North Isles group are North Ronaldsay, Rousay and Westray. The South Isles group surrounds Scapa Flow and includes the seonc largest Orkney island, Hoy, famous to climbers for the sea-stack known as 'The Old Man of Hoy'. South Ronaldsay is found in this group of islands.

Agriculture is still an important part of the economy on all of the inhabited islands whilst tourism and the associated industries and services contribute increasingly to the prosperity of the group.

The known history of these islands, both archaeological and documented, goes back almost 9,000 years. A difficult job to condense it into a few short lines! Evidence of settlements in prehistoric times has been found in many places, particularly

Longhowe in Tankerness where, in 2007 a charred hazelnut shell, with other artefacts appears to indicate human activity over 8,500 years ago. Numerous other finds include a Neolithic farmstead, Skara Brae, an impressive Neolithic settlement, the Standing Stones of Stenness, the Maeshowe chambered cairn and the Ring of Brodgar. Bronze age remains include the bizarrely named Plumcake Mound near the Ring of Brodgar, and sites such as Tofts Ness on Sanday and evidence of two houses on Holm of Faray

Archaeological evidence of Iron Age occuaption is also to be seen in many places, including an Atlantic roundhouse at Quanterness and similar finds at Bu on the Mainland and Pierowall Quarry on Westray. There are numerous excavated sites where the mysterious 'brochs' have been found. A massive stone structure the purpose of which is not yet clearly understood. Examples are the Broch of Burroughston and the Broch of Gurness. There are many sites where the excavated remains of storehouses and aisled roundhouses can be seen.

20th century Orkney is notable for the scuttling, in June 1919, of the captured German fleet which had been removed to Scapa Flow pending a decision on its future. In 1939 'HMS Royal Oak', a Royal Navy battleship, was sunk at Scapa flow by a German u-boat.

The Shetland Islands

The Shetland Islands lie considerably further north and east than the Orkney Isles. The largest island of the group, as in the Orkneys, is called 'Mainland' and is the third largest Scottish island. The population of the islands is around 22, 000 and the administrative centre is Lerwick. The largest islands in the group, with Mainland, are Yell, Unst, Fetlar, Muckle Roe, Whalsay and Bressay. The sea has always played an important part in the ecnomy and life of the shetland Islands with fishing and trade always being a part of it. This ongoing contact with diverse cultures and traditions is apparent in the love of music reflecting the old folk songs and stories of Norway, Ireland, Scotland and beyond.

Much of the history of the Shetland Islands runs parrallel with that of the Orkney Isles, with similar early indigenous populations and then settlement by invading Norsemen who obliterated the earlier inhabitants. As in the Orkney islands archaeological evidence is all around. Progress came slowly to these islands and, whilst Britain had entered the Iron Age, the inhabitants of these islands were still a Stone Age people. Evidence of these settlements can be seen in the hundreds of excavated chambered cairns, houses and brochs. The island of Mousa (now uninhabited) can lay claim to beng the site of the only complete broch in the world whilst Clickimin Broch stands within the suburbs of Lerwick. Digs at Old Scatness have uncovered evidence of settlement continuing for over 3,000 years to the 19th century. At Jarlshof (at West Voe of Sumburgh) archaeological evidence points to Stone Age, Iron Age, Viking and medieval habitations. Perhaps most significant, and raising even more questions about the fate of the earliest islanders, is the existence of the Celtic silver hoard found on the Isle of St Ninian.

Orkney and Shetland Islands General Info

The groups of islands were known to the Romans but conquest doesn't seem to have been on their agenda. From the late 8th century marauding Norsemen gradually dispossessed the indigenous populations. There was considerable settlement of the islands by Vikings over the next 3 centuries and Norway claimed them as her own. The islands were lost to Norway in the 15th century as a result of an unpaid debt. The Orkney and Shetland Islands were the security pledged by King Christian of Norway against payment of the dowry for his daughter Margaret on her marriage to James III of Scotland. The money wasn't paid and the two groups of islands passed into the hands of the Scottish Crown. After this many Scots, from mainland Scotland came to settle in the Orkney islands but the Shetland Islands' culture remained more strongly Norwegian right up to the 20th century. This link was further strengthened in the Second Worl War when Norwegian Resistance fighters were based in the islands and operated the so-called, 'Shetland Bus'. The oil industry has also played a large part in the Shetland Islands' 20th century economy and prosperity.The early economy of the Orkney islands depended largely on agriculture with some fishing and trade but the Shetland islands depended more on trade and fishing. It was not until the 19th century that the Orkney Isles became significant in the herring industry.

Today, the islands are embracing the 21st century and, whilst treasuring and respecting their heritage and culture, offer visitors fantastic opportunites to see and learn so much. In Kirkwall the visitor can see the beautiful, and still in use, Viking Cathedral of St Magnus which was built in 1137. The islands are not just about their history, though. They offer visitors stunning scenery, rolling seas, birds and marine wildlife. Throughout the year the islands host a variety of festivals and events and showcase the traditional arts and crafts.